How long is a double length sling for rock climbing. They may be used as anchors Sep 6, 2021 · How long should a Prusik knot be? A finished Prusik loop of knot is typically 18 inches to 3 feet long. . Learn how it works, along with some cautionary notes. Long: 30cm slings are ideal for long pitches and critical gear (such as wires or finely placed cams), being long enough to move easily and take up the shock and knots as you climb above. 10 – 12 quickdraws or alpine ‘draws: Most trad climbers use alpine ‘draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. An overhand knot is tied in the shoulder-length sling on the right to equalize it with the others. Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Apr 12, 2019 · This sling is best used as a double-length to extend pieces of climbing protection while leading in order to minimize rope drag. Yikes, your rope is too short, whaddya do? One answer: the extended rappel. It can work if the bolts are very close together and you use a small diameter sling, like 8 mm. Not too short, not too long, works on horizontal bolts and with a little adjusting, vertically offset ice screws. Sep 22, 2021 · Northeast Mountaineering gives a great visual on how to do this along with a bonus tutorial on how and why to saddlebag your climbing ropes on a rappel in their YouTube video titled NEM Education Series: Saddlebag Your Rappel Ropes. Unclip the biner and they come off. Make a mini-quad using a long sling or two alpine draws. If you do have a closed-loop cordelette, you can use that to join three to four pieces to another mini-two piece anchor, treating it just like a sling that connects each mini-anchor. Try out a few different options, and see which one makes sense for you. ) Shorter slings (30cm/12 in. Clip each sling to separate pieces in the anchor. Example 3 Jul 5, 2023 · You and your partner have a 60 meter rope, but you need to make a rappel that was bolted for a 70 meter rope. Want To Go Deeper Into Self-Rescue? 1x Double Length Sling (Edelrid Aramid shown here) and Friction Hitch (Sterling Autoblock shown here) on 1x carabiner This is my “rappel kit” to extend a rappel with a backup. The name “alpine quickdraw” comes from, you guessed it – alpine climbing. Two or more nylon slings girth-hitched together for really long extensions. When worn over the shoulder, the Metolius Rabbit Runner can be un-clipped and freed from the Apr 20, 2017 · GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling, 22kN, CE and UIAA certified, made of tube nylon webbing, sewn in bar-tack for high durability. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they can be worn doubled over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. ) Extra-long slings (180–240cm/72–96 in. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. But the other part is my wanting to keep up with the Joneses. 3mm loop of climbing rope. Aug 10, 2018 · The Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling comes in a 30cm long draw, 60cm shoulder length, 120cm double length, 180cm triple length, and 240cm quadruple length, all of which have an 8mm width. Which are the best slings and runners for crags, via ferratas & beyond? Find out everything about materials & length in our dedicated guide. Standing on the end of the sling (as opposed to tying a knot under your feet) will be more comfortable. They are also the perfect length for tripling up as an alpine quickdraw, thereby allowing use at two different lengths depending on the situation. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. If any part of using a double-length sling gives you pause, that is okay and normal! Jan 11, 2013 · Use a single- or double-length sling, depending on how far you need to extend. Apr 1, 2013 · double length sling question! - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Your first questions about choosing a sling will probably be about how long should it be and what type of sling to get. Note / disclaimer: This example is on a bolted anchor with rap rings. Learn how to buy quickdraws. Forces on rock can be higher, and protection might be farther apart. Forces are probably lower on snow, and you can put protection wherever you want it. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. Jun 22, 2018 · Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. This section will help demystify the factors surrounding sling length and sling type so you can feel co Nov 22, 2021 · How long is a double-length sling climbing? Double-Length — 60cm/24in These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. Keep the rappel device in reach. Oct 15, 2021 · Alpine draws are functional, versatile pieces of rock climbing equipment consisting of two carabiners joined by a sling or webbed textile material. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Nov 1, 2019 · Someday in your climbing career, you’ll need to build an anchor after you’ve pretty much run out of carabiners. Mar 15, 2022 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Dec 23, 2023 · Climbing rock climbing slings, such as the ones you see on the rockface, play an important role in keeping you safe and successful on your climb, and they are often overlooked heroes of the climbing world. If you want to make longer alpine draws or shorter alpine draws, you can use a different length of sling. Proper climbing slings will be sewn together using a bar tack technique and will be rated to a minimum breaking strength of 22kN. This setup is for 3 anchor points. The exact length depends on what it’s used for but the loop must be at least 15. 2. But you might not have enough slings on hand. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. But if my pro is close together, a sling is a much quicker and easier to use than a long cordellette. Apr 23, 2024 · The double-length sling from Metolius I’ve been using is nice, but its extra width means takes up more space on my harness and isn’t as good for long extensions. Example 1 A double-length sling equalizes the two pieces on the left. ) (For more details, see our article on how to choose active pro). Setting up anchors Slings are 10 - 12 quickdraws or alpine 'draws: Most trad climbers use alpine 'draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on Jun 2, 2024 · So, don’t use a double length (4 foot / 120 cm) runner at full length for an extended rappel; it’s too long. Using an overhand knot on a double-bite (BHK), build the master point. For such a long length, I usually avoid using tubular webbing. ) Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. For Safety’s Sake, Don’t Do This: Simul-Rappel Jul 20, 2012 · Double length runners fit nicely, Rambo-style around the chest with a biner. Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. For Safety’s Sake, Don’t Do This: Simul-Rappel Jan 24, 2024 · or alpine ‘draws: Most trad climbers use alpine ‘draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. Tube Nylon Webbing High resistant to wear, nylon sling has a long useful life. Having your gear on a shoulder length sling can make it easier to rack when cleaning, slightly easier to place when leading, and easier to hand off gear to your partner when changing leads. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. You can easily store either on your harness. Not only does this versatile runner provide plenty of protection options, it also reduces clutter compared to standard double slings. ) Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. 5mm tech cord) or a quadruple-length sling. A 240 centimetres (94 in) Sling A climbing anchor equalized using dyneema slings. Illustration by Chris Philpot The Gear You’ll need four locking carabiners and a double-length sling (48”). Double-length slings can be unwieldy to store. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Example 2 A double-length sling can join three pieces, if two of them are in line with each other. Nov 2, 2017 · To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. I know at this point I must rappel, so I need to free up the ends of the rope. Nov 22, 2021 · Climbing Slings Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. In Popular Uses for Climbing Slings Draws and extending quick-draws Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. Read more at this tip. Nov 22, 2021 · How many slings do I need for sport climbing? Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. Like most slings, it can be used for a myriad of other uses, but be aware that if you tie knots in it and then weight it, they can weld so tight they become difficult to untie, making this a poor choice for equalizing Aug 1, 2023 · Pull out, away from the rock, to straighten out the sling, and you should be back to what you originally had, a sling with a carabiner on each end. Like most aspects of climbing, how you set this up and whether or not to use it really comes down to personal preference. You typically set up a cordelette with 3 anchor points. There are many varying opinions out there, some of which are given without a lot of experience. 3. This is not intended for use with a Munter rappel. Read on to learn when to use an alpine draw plus how it differs from the trad and sport quickdraws that climbers use. The most common length of climbing rope is 60 meters. Oct 24, 2018 · 1 - The length and diameter can depend on your climbing preferences Climb on snow a lot? Consider a 6 mm 14-15 foot cordelette. Jun 13, 2022 · Step 1 Gear up Use a double-length sling to set up your rap extensions; these double as anchor tethers. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. The report was based on an examination of the climbing gear used by Escobar and Walsh, pull tests on the broken sling, and an on-sight survey of Jun 16, 2003 · By the way, as an additional length consideration, if that "handline" is long enough, it can be used with a regular climbing rope to provide for full-length rappels. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. Jan 19, 2023 · The same testing applies for certified lanyards with adjustable length as well as multiple arms like double lanyards. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Sep 13, 2021 · How long is a single length sling? Is it illegal to use a Hoyer lift with one person? How do I choose a climbing sling? What is the capacity of 1 sling? How much weight can a sling hold? This cord length results in a finished tether length of about 28 inches, which roughly matches the length of my outstretched arm. Jun 7, 2024 · What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. These are most commonly slings of 60 cm (aka Shoulder length or 4 foot) and 120 cm (aka double length or 8 foot Oct 26, 2016 · Double-length slings are also advisable when pulling roofs, putting together a long pitch, or other rope drag–prone situations. The world of rock climbing sling measurements is a fascinating place to dive into to get a better understanding of how these essential tools are measured and why they matter to you. The short length is perfect for making an effective French prusik, able to hold but still release under load: three turns for abseiling on a double rope, and four turns on a single rope. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. This is when I choose to use a PAS or double length sling to tether myself. Mar 9, 2023 · What’s an Alpine Draw? Alpine draws–also known as alpine quickdraws, alpines, or extendable draws–are highly versatile and functional pieces of rock climbing equipment. - Mike Powers Click the link to return to "Ask A Guide Aug 9, 2016 · Do you need a personal anchor system? I would highly recommend a personal anchor system once you start cleaning climbing routes, since this is a simple and safe device for securing yourself directly to the wall. The solution? The alpine draw. This provides redundancy in case one of the anchor points fails. 7” (40cm) in length to ensure there’s enough space to create the Prusik hitch around the climbing rope. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. These two sling lengths seem to cover primary uses for slings that I am aware of; limiting movement of gear by the rope and/or reducing rope drag. A sling is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing. Make sure to clip the second biner into the dogbone/ webbing of the first draw; don’t clip the two biners together to avoid metal-on-metal contact. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Jan 30, 2023 · If the rock quality or the pieces are extremely poor, keep building smaller anchors connected by tied-off double-length slings. Two or more quickdraws clipped together. A plea to climbing brands worldwide: standardize on a color scheme to distinguish between sling length. Aug 16, 2021 · Next time you’re at a hanging belay, try bringing an extra double length sling to use as a rope hanger. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Tether into the mini-quad and untie from the rope (step 1, top illustration). Dec 12, 2022 · Double-length Dyneema slings (120cm) Note: Although the small knife is not used in this article, it’s still a valuable piece of equipment to carry on long routes, useful for tasks like cutting sun-bleached slings off anchors or even cutting your own rope to fashion an emergency bail anchor. An easy-to-carry gear which is able to help in Dec 18, 2014 · Guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin take you through gear-protected climbing in AIM Adventure U’s Intro to Trad Climbing course. What's the advantage of this over a 120 or 240cm sling? Cheers, Michael Oct 2, 2009 · For most climbs, I rack twelve half-length (12 inch) slings on a single biner, and eight double-length slings on a single biner. It is a mere 10mm wide and weighs only 22g for the 60cm double-length version, although this weight is a bit higher than other 10mm wide slings due to the added weight of the plastic sleeve that covers the bar tack. It's tubular design and Dyneema fibers allow it the same amount of mandated strength as all climbing slings — 22kN Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Clove hitch one end of the sling into a biner, clip the other end of the sling into the same biner, then attach this to your most conveniently accessible anchor point. 1). Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Sep 1, 2023 · Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to equalize multiple protection pieces into a secure anchor. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. 1957 article on use of slings by Jan and Herb Conn. Oct 10, 2022 · According to an accident analysis by Riverside Mountain Rescue, an old, degraded fixed sling around a tree broke as Gavin Escobar was on rappel, causing he and Chelsea Walsh to fall several hundred feet to the base of Tahquitz Rock on September 28. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Climbers who find themselves in areas with loose rock, uncertain bolts, or anchors made from trad gear often choose a PAS with dynamic materials to help reduce the force on that anchor should they suddenly fall while at the May 9, 2025 · When to use a PAS Often, when multipitch climbing your party arrives at the top of the climb and in order to get back down you must rappel. Clip two large, locking carabiners of equal size and opposing gates through the master point. The disadvantage of the double length sling is its shorter length, which makes it harder to connect widely spaced pro and which will form a powerpoint with shallow angles on my strands. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. Nov 4, 2016 · How long should a prusik loop be? I usually carry three loops: 2 short, around 30cm, and one long, around 120cm. Visit Intro to Trad to sign up! Tree Anchor Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Since a quad distributes a load more evenly than a sliding X, incorporating a second quad made from a 120 cm sling or two 60 cm slings is usually your best option. Part of that is my wanting to keep my equipment and techniques up to snuff with modern climbing’s best practices. Nov 22, 2021 · What slings do I need for climbing? Climbing Slings Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Width: 16mm / 5/8inch; Length: available in 30cm / 12inch, 60cm / 24inch and 120cm / 48inch. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With A Cordelette This is a static equalization anchor. They can go under or over the Yates sling itself but under the gear itself. Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. The Metolius Rabbit Runner Spectra Sling includes sewn end loops that allow it to be used as an over-the-shoulder sling or a double-length sling on rock and ice climbs. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Slings rated to be used for mountaineering and rock climbing will be most commonly denoted by a label at the seam reading “EN566” or another certification like a "UIAA”, which is sometimes found on the Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they’re a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. Alpine routes frequently contain long pitches, wandering terrain, and traverses. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 11, 2013 · Use a single- or double-length sling, depending on how far you need to extend. Apr 14, 2023 · As a climbing guide, I frequently get caught up in the hype of new and exciting climbing gear—for example, the debate between a prusik and some other rope-grabbing tool, like a Petzl Tibloc. But draping multiple slings over your shoulders is cumbersome. Dec 4, 2008 · Slings play a huge role in all forms of climbing, especially in traditional summer and winter climbing and mountaineering, where they are used both to extend protection, as well as providing protection themselves, looped over spikes or threaded through holes or around chockstones. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they can be worn doubled over a shoulder or as an May 3, 2019 · This can be especially true when you’re alpine climbing and probably wearing a backpack, where the waistband can limit access to your harness gear loops. We tested the double-length 60cm version and found that it was perfect for girth hitching through our belay loop and clipping into an anchor Jun 13, 2022 · Step 1 Gear up Use a double-length sling to set up your rap extensions; these double as anchor tethers. Apr 20, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If the slings are too long, shorten them by tying a knot in each. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. These can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment, or tied directly to a tensioned line using a Prusik style knot. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If you have just one sling (either a double length/120 cm or a single length/60 cm) and one carabiner for the master point, you (might be) in business. Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. The Contact Sling wraps up extremely small and I hardly notice it on my harness. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. Jun 15, 2011 · Way back in the day when climbers were trusted to tie knots correctly you'd make a sling by walking in to a climbing shop and asking for the length of tape needed to make the sling you wanted. So, because a prusik knot Dec 11, 2014 · Materials 1 double-length (48-in/120cm), sewn nylon sling 3 locking carabiners Rappel device Material for an autoblock (typically, a 6mm prusik cord) NOTE THE FOLLOWING SAFETY CONCERNS 1. I think 180 cm is about the sweet spot. You can easily store this system on your harness. Setup for the Extended Rappel with an Autoblock Apr 11, 2019 · The Mammut Contact Sling wins our Editors' Choice award for the best overall climbing sling because it far outperforms the competition, leading the way when it comes to weight (a mere 19g), bulk, handle, and the ability to quickly and easily use it as an alpine quickdraw. It comes in lengths of 60cm (double length), 120cm (quadruple length), and 150cm. Simply tie an overhand knot in the sling above the lower piece. I have found such a length to be appropriate for the vast majority of my climbing applications, such as hanging from a double-bolt anchor on a sport route, or clipping to my ice axe on a snow route. I take a cordelette to be a long length (how long?) of 7mm static cord joined into a loop with a double fisherman's knot. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Jan 1, 2015 · Then, measure out the appropriate length of rope to build a master point that hangs over the cliff edge. It’s also possible that a quad created from a sling might not be long enough. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Wider slings (3/4” or 1”) are generally more durable. (You’ll also hear slings called runners, which is short for “running belay,” meaning any protection point between stationary belay stances. For slinging natural features and extending gear below larger roofs, you will need something even longer – a double-length (120 cm) sling. Mar 23, 2020 · Hi all, I keep seeing references to cordelette, especially for equalising/creating a master/power point between multiple piece trad anchors. Oct 11, 2022 · The length of a climbing rope will determine how long you can go before needing to build an anchor and how long a rappel you can do. Aug 20, 2019 · The Beal Dynamic Sling, as it is most often named in the US, or also known as the Dynaloop, as listed on Beal's website, is made out of a sewn 8. Most people stick to using shoulder-length slings to create their alpine draws. Like single-length slings, these can be made of nylon and Dyneema, materials that have their pros and cons. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Nov 22, 2021 · (Remember, you can combine your gear with your partner’s. Double-length slings (12 cm) can either be racked over the shoulder or clipped to a carabiner and then a gear loop. Most climbers prefer to rack their gear on their harnesses, but there might be times when you’re short on racking space and a sling over your shoulder is the easiest solution. Light weight while rating to high strength 22kN. Nov 22, 2021 · How long is a double-length sling climbing? Double-Length — 60cm/24in These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. Mar 24, 2016 · Use aiders if you have them, or fashion loops out of cordelette or double-length slings clipped to the anchor. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. Mar 13, 2024 · The Tools Quickdraws, single-length slings (sometimes called full-length), double-length slings, and carabiners are essential parts of any trad climber’s standard kit. Jul 31, 2012 · You'll often carry several full-length, 24-inch slings on long rock routes or alpine climbs, to reduce rope drag, wrap around horns for protection or belays, or rig belay anchors. Apr 12, 2019 · In both width and weight, the Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner is very similar to the Black Diamond Dynex Runner. More a rock person? Maybe a 7 mm 20 foot cord is a better choice. Tie back long hair. Quickdraw slings are presewn slings that let you make your own ‘draws by adding the carabiners you choose. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). vgsse qruk bbtas drlq fjuhzxb xprqb etthpl ydtthfvj mlridzq wcspr