What carabiner to use with a grigri reddit. Just adjust it to your desired length then cinch it.

What carabiner to use with a grigri reddit. I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. But Amazon commingles “like” goods from multiple sellers. I have had them break when used by inexperienced climbers, and as such I do not trust them nearly as much as a Petzl Rig. It slides up the rope easily, and can't be disengaged from the rope accidentally like a Microtraxion can (theoretically). Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. This carabiner must be inspected before any further use. The rigging plate is then attached to a shackle, attached to a spanset with TrePro on the tree. Move to other ABD’s later once you gain more experience…. I use the GriGri 2 consistently, and have used the Smart Alpine only on one multipitch route. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. Buy a tube-style belay device and learn how to use it. They planned on single strand rappels using the grigri? Usually on a big wall you'd have a reverso or some other tube device for the rap/backup belay device to the grigri. Use a Munter for a backup. If I get stuck on the route and need to jug up, I can switch to my grigri, then use the lift ascender above it to make a quick pulley system for pulling myself up the rope 3:1 What brand in particular. I was surprised at how much smoother my rappels and guide-mode belays got when I stopped using my I-beam carabiners and started using a round stock carabiner. I use the plume primarely for acenders since i like to use locking biners in my setup. 1. Safe climbing all! 1. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. If you are using a steel carabiner then I would suggest changing to an aluminum since the steel is harder and can, over time, chip away at the aluminum causing unnecessary wear. It's really not hard to learn to use a grigri properly. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Non safety critical things like clothes and shoes sure. Most discussions refer to belaying and not any rappelling scenarios. But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. I like to use grigri for toprope belaying and Jul2 for leading and I would feel super safe with my belayer using either to a point where I now hate even the idea of anyone using ATC/Reverso and the like for belaying me. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Now what's in my carabiner aside from keys: The GRIGRI +’s cam-assisted blocking capability does not relieve you of the need to follow basic belaying principles: be attentive to the climber’s progress and always hold the brake side of the rope. I don’t use those when climbing outside, while it is sufficient for a belay device it’s “could” open. How to attach ATC or GriGri onto this harness? I have the Petzl Aspir Harness. You can buy two, keep one for a second on multipitch or a backup in case you lose/drop one, and still have 30 bucks for gas to get to the crag! As usual u/bearbreeder has some great advice below to make sure that you are aware of how best to use an ATC/other belay device before using a grigri as grigris are assisted belay devices, not auto-locking ones. Personally I love my DMM Pivot—it's overkill for top-roping, but spend the extra $10 now and you'll avoid having to buy a new device once you get into multipitch. You can do the same thing by placing a locking carabiner in your belay loop and clove hitching the grigri strand to it (instead of using a grigri). But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. it does the job, and is fast for clipping and unclipping from my harness. Needs weight similar to a microtrax, but once you’re off the ground it’s great. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. However if an aluminum carabiner was used for something else like a long time on a slackline, or a small lift/winch it could very easily develop microfractures. Even the single locking carabiners are a bit risky for in tree use. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? Got to try this out and really enjoyed it: Belays almost identically to GRIGRI 2 Easier to feed slack quickly Can be used with or without belay carabiner When used without it sit closer to harness so easier to feed long pulls of slack and never cross loads Nice addition to the world of belay devices! First one I’d consider using instead of GRI. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. If you are getting high off the ground or far from the I know that you can use a GriGri, but that requires additional stopper knots. The problem is when I attach a carabiner to the loop, then an ATC to that, the devices ends up rotated 90 degrees in other words the brake rope does not feed directly down from the ATC, it's more like directly to the right of it. If you want to be flexible with your carabiner and use multiple belay devices, the Edelrid Strike and the BD Gridlock (which I found very fumbly) have similar function of keeping the carabiner nicely aligned. If amazon, camp saver, petzl themselves and knockoffs inc all sell the same product and use fulfillment by amazon, all of the There's a sport version (one rope, functionally, its a grigri) and the alpine version, which though called "alpine" works well for all climbing. Weight is a factor. co. Its basically the love child of an ATC and a grigri. If you need to rappel with a GriGri, it is great in a pinch or if a GriGri is just what you happen to have and you don’t normally rappel. The blocking carabiner may fall during recovery. Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Anyone use the Edelrid Megajul for multipitch/top-belays? I heard they can be a bit finicky/sticks when used in guide mode, but not sure how much of that is due to the shape of the carabiner being used with the device. Looking for both big ones for HMS belays, master points etc and a few smaller ones. My current solution is to have a clove hitch on a carabiner, to my belay loop. I really, really did not like the Smart Alpine as a guide style device, and Immediately went back to using a BD atc guide or reverso. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Unsurprisingly, Petzl says not to use an HMS The Sm'd is small, doesn't do dumb, and has a tiny hole if you'd like to tether your Grigri to the carabiner. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. 95 votes, 73 comments. So while you may think you are buying a tested, certified, quality controlled piece of gear manufactured by a major company you may not be. I am a Tree Climber exclusively, we use the GriGri for rappels out of trees on recreational climbs. ) Do you guys have any ideas on how to personalize climbing equipment? Some of my friends have gotten some of their stuff stolen, so I thought the more blatant it is that it's mine the less likely it will be stolen. But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. And yes we are scared of falling. Presumably he has noticed that others are using the same locking biner for their ATC To add to the recommendation of getting a toothed/guide ATC, if you want to keep using the regular grigri 2 and still find it too fast consider spending on a freino carabiner to smooth things out. The difference in diameter between the ropes may dictate using a double fisherman's knot instead of a classic joining knot. The smart is my favourite belay device. I'm in need of a belay device (currently own a Grigri and a standard ATC), and was considering the Megajul vs. the Petzl Reverso. All of the options we recommend for use with the GRIGRI are aluminum because the rope does not rub and wear down the carabiner. or just stick with the grigri… The instructor then came back over and 'corrected' her again. Use anything with a rating even the knock off chinese ones. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. trueHe is talking about the locking biner he uses to belay with, and how the grigri is chewing his up (because in the case of a grigri, the rope doesn't contact the locking biner). These are all your personal preference! Reply reply Mindless_Shop_7394 • Only for racking things on my saddle or light speedlining. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. Initially I wanted to use carabiners to look like a cool lesbian. when belaying with a Grigri The force at the belayer's end of the rope is never anywhere near enough to trouble even a crossloaded carabiner, especially when toproping. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. My worry is that they would not handle frozen/wet ropes well. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. You made an excellent choice! As for carabiners, there honestly aren’t too many important differences—pick ones that feel good in your hand, and ideally don’t get the same draws as your partners. For climbers looking for a locker to use on gym climbs, top-roping days, or rappelling, the Rocklock is a good choice that won't break the bank. It only has one loop, clearly labeled. It is a good piece of kit and easy to use for beginners. My advice is: Get a mammut smart, a petzl grigri, a beal birdie or whatever other assisted belay device you can find because with them you will be able to use with any carabiner and virtually any type of rope (8mm to 11mm) in any condition (Old or New) without having to worry if the device will actually work. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. I use a DMM Belay Master with my GriGri and wouldn't like to use anything else. Outside. The only consideration is whether I’m using one rope or two (Grigri or something like a Jul), and whether I’m ice climbing (Grigri harder to deal with frozen ropes). For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. Reply reply pine4links • Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Exactly. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue. I wouldn't mind just using the gri gri to belay my second instead for a few weeks instead picking up another guide. Or if there is any other nuances I Hey all. The gate of the biner is always facing left, and my right hand is my brake rope hand, never had that happened to me. Other information is provided to guide climbers choose the best locking carabiner for Grigri. The grigri is the gold standard for a reason and is what you should start with. Since there's more than one way to skin a cat: to tether my Grigri, I put a 3mm loop through the carabiner hole in the body of the Grigri. Some people also use weights to attach to the belayer, or they tie themself in on the ground somewhere. Second rappel can be set up only after the rope has been fully retrieved. I keep those around for rapelling only. single and double ropes. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. What locking carabiners Is everyone using. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. It is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 the cost. Thanks in anticipation! 1. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. For top-roping indoors, all you need is a harness (any harness will do, so long as it's by a reputable company and fits), a belay device, and a locking carabiner. Me, I have a little of everything, I have edelrid PetZl Mammut camp: carabiners, quickdraws, belay devices, belts I must admit that recently I have bought a few more edelrid carabiners, so I guess you could say I tend more to go to edelrid than the others But I was wondering what your favourite brand is and why or for what, We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. TLDW: pays out slack better but weighs more and costs more. Now that ice season is here I am wondering if people use them to belay in the winter. If you use a grigri you will need to invest in additional webbing to serve as a soft release. So, moral of the story. * IMO, it's worth the extra weight (although you'd be perfectly safe using an I-beam carabiner for these purposes). rubber banding an open sling Definitely not I use a Camp Lift with an captive end oval carabiner. I prefer all my locking carabiners to be multi use, meaning I can use them on any belay device, building an anchor, when rappelling. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. The only thing I can think of that would cause this kind of wear is using a carabiner made of a harder metal than the metal used in the grigri. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. A body belt harness (Black Diamond Solution Harness) with a gri-gri (Petzl GRIGRI + Belay Device) and a rope grab (Wild Country Ropeman 1 Ascender) before the gri-gri as a 2nd safety catch. You will find better and more knowledgeable support for the grigri especially in the near future. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 As the heading says what’s in your climbing bag? Do you even use a bag? If not why? I see some ppl come in with just shoes and a chalk bag. uk describes the difference between the NEOX and a GriGri. I'll still use the grigri for multipitch, but for the single pitch sport cragging (with anchor clips for lowering) that is 95% of my climbing, I'll keep using the Pilot. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • The thing is i like my gear as sets, like i have 4 multipurpose ballock petz carabiners as reserver, but i don't like using it for like my slings (lanyard), i want seperate carabiners for that one. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. What do you think? Closed• total votes GriGri's are safe to use in icy conditions GriGri's are an accident waiting to happen in icy conditions Voting Petzl Am'D Triact Carabiners (4) Yale Blaze 11mm Climbing Rope (is this a good rope for blakes hitch and grigri?) Petzl Footape Adjustable Foot Loop Petzl GriGri Petzl Ascension Ascender Left Hand XYGOOD Treestand Harness (cheap Amazon harness - use to learn on and then invest in something better) Build a lanyard from some of the blaze rope and The clepsydra is an super belay biner, super convinient to use on a ATC w. carabiner in belay loop? Okay, move up a bit and give it a clicky clacky to make sure carabiner is locked Okay, move up a bit and Brake handle on left? Pull on climbers side rope with left hand to check grigri cam follow rope (which is already in left hand from step 3) by giving it a flick to make sure it’s going to my climber and isn’t tangled under the rest of the rope (follow the rope The Edelrid pinch is still very new (I don’t think it’s actually publicly available yet, just the demo pieces that some pros have) Given that you are still new to climbing (or at least gear ownership) I’d strongly recommend staying with the more established gear types. In lead climbing you need to form an L shape with the rope going through two carabiners next to each other (you use the first clipping points of two routes next to each other). I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Instead of a grigri, I use a Camp Lift ascender for my second. The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. I've lost my guide ATC and now only have a a regular tube ATC for rapelling and a gri gri. Another option is to use stopper knots on the rope, but my gym has deemed that method unsafe. It is durable, affordable, and with a retail price, presents fantastic value. A grigri does not compensate weight difference. After many years of using an ATC I finally switched over to a GriGri for rock climbing. Dec 13, 2023 · Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. Grigri is what you should be starting with. JB Mountain skills (linked in post) says he would continue using it in single-pitch sport climbs. Edit: read your comment below, so it seems I went with the better carabiner option, 1/20-1/40 seems a lot Reply reply mariafallon34 • Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. Too easy for the gate to come undone. After using the ATC for so long, the muscle memory is the same for the Pilot, and I didn't have to relearn belaying like with a GriGri. In normal climbing applications carabiners just aren’t subjected to enough repeated loads. I think I'd be nice to have auto-locking but have thus far only used screw-gate biners. Personalizing Climbing Equipment (GriGri, Carabiners etc. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Has anyone here used this specific carabiner with a grigri? If you do please let me know what model of grigri you have as well. I know to keep the camming mechanism away from touching the rock, But am just curious if anyone here prefers to do it this way, or if I'm gonna die. and my belay device another carabiner as a set. Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. I am looking to add a few locking biners to my gear, mostly for critical pieces, anchor building etc. Our team of climbing experts The GriGri is simple too, but I personally just like to use the equipment for what it was made for. Just dont trust them with your life. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. Reply reply more repliesMore replies Qwackerzz • For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners along with the Grigri. He has a different locking biner for ATC belays, because in that case, the rope DOES contact the carabiner. Then move that along the rope as I progress. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Jan 8, 2019 · The Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate is BD's largest locking carabiner, designed with belaying and rappelling in mind. com May 24, 2023 · Backcountry has a decent deal on the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG Carabiner right now but the reviews regarding its usage with Grigris are concerning. It feeds rope well, is easy to find a sweet spot when lowering and weighs less on the harness. If climbing or rappelling with a tubular belay device like an ATC or other device that uses a carabiner for friction, you could consider using a stainless steel carabiner. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight Crossloading basically went away when I stopped using an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • Using a locker that isn't triple action is the same kind of medieval nonsense as belaying with an atc. When using a GriGri with a Grilock please make sure to use the small end for the GriGri and big end for the harness. And one that isn’t the size of my face. " You can only remove the rope from the Grigri+ by completely removing the carabiner. The GriGri with all of its magic does not replace a proper rappelling device. More info on carabiner stock shape here and here. /thread Honestly kind of surprised so many people are recommending anything else for someone just starting out. I primarily use a grigri for belaying but usually bring an ATC as well in case I need to rappel off the anchors for some reason. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. You should use what you're more comfortable with (I use a reverso for the most part), but if your buddy insists on having you use the grigri, then ask to borrow it and get comfortable feeding rope through it. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. Agree on all points. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. The home of Climbing on reddit. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. Just adjust it to your desired length then cinch it. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. See full list on climbernews. 22 votes, 38 comments. (nevertheless) specifically designed belay carabiners with various kinds of anti-crossloading devices exist and are popular; you could buy one if it would give you more peace of mind. ” Anyone have a chance to try this out and get a feel for how the action compares to a GriGri in hand? The ability to set up the device in a vertical position without the use of a carabiner seems a bit gimmicky, and I’m curious if it is actually just a single button release on the brake-hand side. The Mega is often used in anchors and on multipitch belaying top dow. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. The pulley system is attached to the webbing anchor with one double pulley; and a rigging plate for the second double pulley and the grigri or single pulley. You don't have to do that with an I'D. Which is pretty much the reason I use it over the grigri, one piece of gear instead of two to do all the same things. May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. Do you usually use your left hand for the brake rope? I have had the same set up (but with bulletproof biner) for maybe two years now. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. If you're a climbing instructor and you can't even be arsed to google how to use a fucking grigri properly, you're a gumby climbing instructor. All that said I I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. . I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Thank you! curious why you would use a bulletproof with a grigri? Mar 1, 2023 · This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. The Petzl website is where that animation is from, and is how I learned how to use one. The Pilot automatically locks when weighted by the climber above you, so with lowering you put your hand on the device and push it down, and the Pilot does the work of lowering for you, not your brake hand. Also harness, shoes, helmet, chalk bag. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. The metal swivel plate closes snugly on top of it, but everything seems pretty happy. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. scoc shwfsu oytgag xitgwfwgc bea shjw tumvx qefnr isznvqe ajhtj