Ape index climbers height. I understand the debate around the topic.

Ape index climbers height. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. This simple yet revealing metric can impact athletic performance, equipment fitting, and even our understanding of human evolution. The ape index measures the ratio between arm span and height. The result will be the same either way. 6 centimeters and +9. There are several routes in my Being small has a lot of advantages in climbing (light, keeping the body close to the wall) and it's no coincidence that the vast majority of pro climbers (male and female) are below average height - with some exceptions of course, such as Adam Ondra. An Ape Index less than 1 means your wingspan is less than your height. nu and see the ranked climbers height, you can also see their sends so probably you'll find good projects for your morphology that way! Aug 3, 2021 · It was my instinct. implementing this simple answer might be a bit trickier😀 First time climbing at Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Check this step out. The ape index is a fascinating measurement that determines the ratio of a person’s wingspan to their height. I’d like to watch their technique because im sure it’s different than the shorter/average women and any of the men. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. This simple calculation provides insights into physical proportions that can significantly influence performance in various sports, particularly climbing and gymnastics. How to Measure and May 9, 2025 · Conclusion: Key Takeaways on Ape Index and Your Climbing Reach The ape index measures arm span (wingspan) to height, but its climbing impact is complex and often overstated; it’s more myth than a primary success determinant for any climber. With this tool, you can check if your wingspan to height ratio will help you in your sports career. We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are conducting an extensive study (over a large subset of competition climbers) to identify which factors specifically contribute to enhanced climbing performance in competitive climbing I was curious what the age and height distribution of the IFSC finalists were so I found out and made a couple charts. This unique measurement can provide insights into an athlete’s potential performance in various physical activities, especially those that involve upper body strength and flexibility Climbers are always arguing whether taller climbers have an advantage when climbing. Calculate your Ape Index and discover your weaknesses & strengths as a climber Determine the relationship between arm span and body height! Nov 29, 2024 · Ape Index: Understanding the Measure of Reach The term ape index might sound unusual, but it plays a significant role in sports, fitness, and human physiology. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. Hey! (Relatively) New climber here! I know pro women tend to be on the shorter-average end of height, but I’m 6 feet tall and can’t really find info on any other tall girl climbers. Discover if your arm span exceeds your height for potential advantages in climbing or other sports. Your second paragraph HITS the nail on the head. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out! I've always liked this video for showing all the competitors stacked up against each other in terms of height, weight and ape index. Jul 16, 2018 · Gear is only one part of the climbing experience. At approximately 6 feet 1 inch (185 cm), his stature allows him a significant reach advantage, crucial for conquering complex routes that require extensive Height 5′ 5″ Age 26 Ape Index Unknown Nationality Slovenian Janja Garnbret has dominated the world of sport climbing like no other. Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. Granted scrunched up moves are more challenging for taller people so there is advantages and disadvantages. 938/ -10cm. What is a good ape index for climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. While a positive ape index seems advantageous, there are notable exceptions: Lynn Hill: An ape index of 0 (or an ape index ratio of 1) Babsi Background: Adult elite competitive rock climbers are small in stature with low body mass and very low body fat percentage. 2 Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. It is used by rock climbers and other athletes to determine whether they will have an advantage or disadvantage when climbing. Jul 25, 2024 · Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. Reply reply Guyonskis • Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. Mar 12, 2023 · For that purpose, determine your height and arm span (just spread your arms to the sides and measure the distance from the fingertips of one hand to the fingertips of the other one). An architect and engineer, Vitruvius Pollio, made a claim that a “well made man” of good proportions had an arm span equal to his height. No published anthropometry data for young competitive climbers exist. Covering 35 miles, ascending 23,000 feet vertically across 126 pitches, and conquering 23 summits, this feat included technical routes The ape index is usually defined as the ratio of arm span to height. In rock climbing The problem with all the discussions of height and ape index are that the "oh I can't reach that" is such an obvious problem to novice climbers, so they inevitably jump to the conclusion of "if only I was a little bit taller" without considering all the invisible repercussions. Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. Edit: Forgot the link facepalm Sep 19, 2023 · Ai Mori je nová japonská lezecká ikona, která vystřelila na vrchol světové pozornosti na šampionátu 2023 v Bernu. The ape index, which is a ratio of your wingspan vs your height, is an interesting part of climbing because if you compare the average person to the top 1% of climbers, you will notice the top Athlete APE Index Calculation One way to measure if an athlete’s reach is NATURALLY longer or shorter than their Height is through the APE Index. ” As the first person to free the Nose on El Capitan, she certainly has a leg to stand on. Ape Index – how to measure it and does it really matter? Ape Index Calculator Height: inchescm Wingspan: inchescm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. Jun 8, 2019 · Two beautiful shots from Croatia edited for Comparison as it is tradition on this channel, this time taking a look at different body types in terms of reach, height and ape index in rock climbing Oct 4, 2011 · Regardless of comparable body height, climbers had significantly greater arm span and arm length (by about 6 and 2. The Ape Ratio, also known as the Ape Index or wingspan to height ratio, is a numerical measure that compares an individual's wingspan (the distance from fingertip to fingertip when arms are fully extended) to their height. Apr 18, 2022 · What is Ape Index? Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. This is the ratio of your height/reach (index finger to index finger). Is a Positive ape index good for climbing? To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. Apr 24, 2025 · Wingspan? Ape Index? Your wingspan refers to the length of your arms from end-to-end when raised parallel to the ground; ape index is simply the ratio of your wingspan to your height. 1492 drawing Just watching the ISFC world championships. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ It is also important to note that the height distribution of the best climbers is narrower than the height distribution of the general population (i. Ape index formula The Ape index is calculated using the following formula: Ape index = Wingspan / Height Height and Wingspan This index is expressed as a numerical value Nov 28, 2023 · What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index compares an individual's arm span to their height. i generally lank my way up harder climbs. May 30, 2023 · At 5’2” with a negative ape index, Lynn Hill states in her book, Climbing Free, that “height has nothing to do with it; it is your strength that counts. However, even people with a negative gorilla index can do well in rock climbing. Objective: To describe the Here are the stats for the first move on W2 in the World Championship boulder finals in Bern 2023. This measurement is particularly popular among athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts to gauge their anatomy and biomechanical advantages in various sports. Read on for a more in-depth analysis on whether or not there’s a correlation between height and rock climbing skill! Increase your REACH as a short Climber: • How a 5ft Climber became 𝙒𝙤𝙧𝙡𝙙 𝘾𝙝𝙖𝙢𝙥𝙞 Top Climbing Moments of 2022: • Top Climbing Moments of 2022 Janja Garnbret For rock climbers, ape index often matters even more than a person’s height in terms of holds a climber can reach on a particular route, and sometimes, what routes a climber can complete successfully. Megos uses his height and build to excel in both technical precision and dynamic power, highlighting th Regardless of comparable body height, climbers had significantly greater arm span and arm length (by about 6 and 2. To explain it plainly, the APE Index is popular in sports and fitness, especially among climbers, as it can provide insights into reach advantage. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. 84 m). If you’re not sure, you can always ask your doctor on your next visit. im 6'2 with a +4" ape index. I'm sure it won't be too much of a problem once I'm a more experienced climber and have built up strength/ technique, but I've only been climbing for 2 months, and my size makes it pretty difficult for me a lot of the time. 14 points of bouldering ability on the V-scale. 1492 drawing Oct 13, 2024 · Ape index, or ape factor, or gorilla index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. That said one could be pickier and ask for ape index, time spent climbing, expertise in bouldering, sport, speed and more. A person with an ape index of less than 1 has /uj I’m about your height with a -1 ape index. Measure from fingertip to fingertip. Far from slowing down, his recent 32-hour and 6 minute, Ultimate Red Rock Traverse is a testament to his enduring prowess and passion for climbing. Jul 16, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. Long arms for your height are an advantage in rock climbing, swimming Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. Does anybody have reliable data on the height/ape index stuff for all the top athletes? I would definitely support the theory that she is the best female climber and by far the most well rounded. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. … I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. The analysis shows the most important factor in 1. Basic results? Each inch of ape index should give you an extra 0. The correlation (r-squared) was quite low--0. Known for redefining the APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. Bottom line: This is the most common way climbers express their ape index. e. Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. Thought I'd share here in case anyone else is interested I like was :) Ages of all IFSC finalists in 2022 Heights of IFSC boulder and lead finalists in 2022 Summary is: Age range of all climbing finalists (boulder, lead, speed) in the 2022 World Cup is 16-35 years old, with My ape index is above 1… An ape index above 1 can be beneficial to a number of sports; in basketball, combat sports, goalkeeping, climbing and swimming there is benefit to be gained from increased wingspan relative to height. Your ape index is your wingspan (arm span) compared to your height. 01) greater than observed in untrained students, respectively. Go to 8a. By determining the ape index, users gain a better understanding of their Ape index Ape index refers to the ratio of arm span to height, often reported by elite climbers. Both are legendary climbers with multiple world cup championships under their belt. Apr 27, 2025 · Ape index is a phrase that started as climbing slang, but the origins of arm span compared to height actually date back to Roman times in 15 BC. 03 V-points), and height entirely uncorrelated. The ape index calculator helps you calculate your ape index (Also known as the ape factor or gorilla index). That can be seen by looking at the field of the worlds best competitive climbers, many world class Japanese climbers are around 5'8". So basically if your height is 70. The shorter the climber the lower the chance they would stick the move. g. Based on proportions identified by Vitruvius, the drawing shows a man where the arm span is equal to the height, giving an ape index of 1. William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Compute your wingspan by stretching both rams sideways to take the measurement. Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. 07 Ape Index 2 = 5 inches Those sit down starts can be pretty grim, though I find my long legs more of a problem than long arms. The average ape index is 1, which means that a person’s arms are the same length as their legs. So, some moves will be easier for climbers depending on their ape index and height. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Ape index Vitruvian Man c. I am pretty happy with my climbing progress but I definitely complain occasionally about not reaching things. Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. 8inches/180cm then your ape index difference is 0 and your ape index ratio is 1. and i'm short (female) to top it off. What is an Ape Index Calculator? Definition: This calculator computes the Ape Index, a measure of the ratio or difference between a person's wingspan and height, often used in sports like climbing and swimming to assess physical advantages. Enter your height and wingspan in cm to determine your ape index. Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. Introduction The Ape Index Calculator is a specialized tool designed to help climbers and athletes measure their arm span in relation to their height. At just 11 years old, he was already climbing 8a+. Oct 29, 2021 · How do you calculate ape index? Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. 6 SD (p<0. 85m), Chris Sharma (1. Vitruvius noted that a "well made man" has an arm span equal to his or her height, as exemplified in Leonardo da Vinci's drawing, the "Vitruvian Man". To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. Height - 71 inches Arm Span - 76 inches Ape Index 1 = 1. Both male and female sport climbers presented higher lean muscle mass than control subjects only in the study of Philippe et al. Vitruvius noted that a "well made man" has an arm span equal to his height, as exemplified in Leonardo da Vinci's c. But does it matter? Click to find out. [1] Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is May 22, 2023 · Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: “A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. 001) and 0. Reach was far less important (each inch adds only 0. The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. Ape Index = Arm span/Body Height. With our calculator, you can quickly and easily find For climbers, the value of a good Ape Index will differ greatly compared to a weightlifter, footballer, or boxer. 4 centimeters. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. The Slovenian athlete is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In climbing, any height can be advantageous, as different physiques offer unique strengths. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. If somebody who was the same height as me, but with a +4" ape factor had to make a really reachy move on a route, I'd likely be looking for a different way to do that move. Understanding your ape index can not only enhance your athletic pursuits but also offer insight into your body mechanics An Ape Index greater than 1 means your wingspan is greater than your height, which can be an advantage in sports like rock climbing. From my understanding it looks like height is not a big deal for competition climbing because route setters are careful to remove any height biases during setting. Jan 9, 2015 · Rock climber? Swimmer? Normal person who is curious about your body proportions? Find out your ape index. Lean muscle mass, ape index, and bone mineral density of sport climbers and control subjects are shown in Table 3. Strong outdoor climbers seem to be taller than average: Eg : Adam Ondra (1. Probably only relevant when sharing route beta with climbers of a similar height. Generally, a good ape index for climbing falls anywhere between +2. i guess im heavier. Adam Ondra (Czech pronunciation: [ˈadam ˈondra]; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. Jul 13, 2021 · A negative gorilla index can be a disadvantage. Analysis of Climber Ape Indices The data suggests that many professional climbers have a positive ape index, indicating that they tend to have longer arms for their height. Since I started in 2004 my climbing has been in constant evolution. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. This concept has gained popularity among athletes, particularly climbers and gymnasts, where the ability to reach and stretch can significantly impact performance. I made a survey to gather this data and ran it by a few scientists to make sure the questions and method were good. That means his fingertip to fingertip wingspan is 1 centimeter more than his height. Don’t let your Ape Index define your climbing journey; focus on what you can control and train smart. i. However, as someone a little below 5 foot, these conversations still seem to be a little inapplicable to someone my stature. I do see that there is a Mar 29, 2025 · Instead of focusing on your inherent Ape Index, direct your efforts towards improving trainable factors like strength, body composition, and technique. Additionally, you can even compare yourself with some of the greatest athletes. outliers will have a harder time). We can calculate Wingspan to Height Ratio using the Athlete’s Wingspan divided by the athlete’s Height. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. However, an alternative approach is arm span minus height with the result being positive, 0 or negative. Can someone else that is height challenged like me provide some advice or techniques to help from being discouraged as a short climber? It Keywords: ape index climbing explanation, Oriane Bertone bouldering tips, how to calculate ape index, wingspan height climbing advantages, benefits of high ape index, climbing metrics that matter, bouldering techniques for short climbers, improve climbing with ape index, understanding climbing measurements, climbing performance factors Jun 18, 2021 · Ape Index is often discussed in other sports such as rock climbing and boxing, where longer arms are usually considered an advantage. 2 ape index in centimeters. E. Oct 8, 2021 · When expressed as the difference between wingspan and height, Woods has a +4 ape index in inches, or a +10. 5 cm, respectively) what was reflected in ape index and arm length index, the respective values being by about 1. The formula is: Ape Index = Arm Span – Height To find your arm span, stand against a wall and stretch your arms out horizontally with fingertips extended. A positive ape index is considered advantageous for rock climbers. I've really learned to love the process involved with setting goals and striving to achieve them. Explosive climbing styles, good movement, flexibility and technique equalize height and reach advantages. Not to worry, they are both very simple and use the same measurements. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. Aug 23, 2022 · The Ape Index (aka Gorilla Index) is a well-known term in the climbing community, and one that is often quoted, albeit primarily by compulsive, male, beta-sprayers trying to impress in compensation… Calculate your Ape Index easily with height and arm span measurements. I understand the debate around the topic. A positive index is seen as advantageous for climbers. However, everyone seems to agree that having a higher “ape index” is helpful. To calculate your ape index, you need your height and arm span. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. Nonetheless, while there is truth to Lynn’s statement, on a strictly physical level height does allow taller climbers to cover the same amount Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. 1492 by Leonardo da Vinci. I have seen many debates on whether height is an advantage or disadvantge to bouldering. Just wanted to express my admiration, shes only 5ft! Found some Apr 17, 2025 · A 2023 study found that the average height for the world’s best comp climbers was 5’8”-5’9” for men and 5’4”-5’5” for women. Apr 16, 2025 · 3. , Muhammad Ali has a wingspan of 78 inches (6’3 / 198 cm), and Height is 75. Ape index is basically the same as In rock climbing it is believed that an Ape Index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio, although this view is somewhat controversial. The most convenient way to compute the ape index is to reduce a person’s height from their arm span. 03, so it only explains 3% of the variation in climbing. Positive Ape Index: Arm span is greater than height Negative Ape Index: Arm span is less than height Neutral Ape Index: Arm span equals height A higher Ape Index is often considered an advantage in sports that require reach, such as rock climbing, basketball, martial arts, and swimming. However, if you were part of Dec 4, 2024 · Calculating the Ape Index The simplest way to calculate the ape index is by subtracting your height from your arm span. That means her fingertip-to-fingertip wingspan is 1 inch more than her height. On average, people have an ape index of zero—something that was noticed millennia ago by Vitruvius, as depicted Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. 8inches/ 180cm and your arm span is 70. But which are really the most important? There have been many Positive Ape Index: Arm span is greater than height Negative Ape Index: Arm span is less than height Neutral Ape Index: Arm span equals height A higher Ape Index is often considered an advantage in sports that require reach, such as rock climbing, basketball, martial arts, and swimming. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. we all have our own individual styles but just super impressed with her. Having been born into a climbing family, Shawn started climbing at just 3 years old. (31). So if you are climbing a reachy slab like Acme Wall, and you’re significantly above or below these averages, you can pretty accurately assume that the stated grade is different from your actual experience. It's a term well-known in climbing circles and is often brought up when discussing physical advantages in the sport. Mar 1, 2011 · The variable of a positive arm span to height ratio (ie Ape Index) is often suggested to be advantageous for climbing performance, but has never been reported in Chinese climbers. Obviously my research is not as thorough as yours though. Feb 23, 2020 · This compounds the benefit, as longer legs provide a larger base, from which those lengthier arms can then be leveraged. 4in (+1 cm) NATIONALITY Czech Adam Ondra Height Adam Ondra stands tall with a height that perfectly complements his climbing style. This is because you have a greater range when it comes to reaching. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. 1. Jun 4, 2024 · Different ape indexes in climbing, as well as height indexes, will influence the style in which you will be climbing and the beta. The total body dual-energy x-ray It definitely can be worked around I’m not saying a negative index makes climbing impossible. Jan 12, 2022 · Arm to height ratio or ape index is commonly measured to gauge aesthetics and athletic abilities. Most people's wingspan equals their height, making them neutral ape indexes. Known for redefining the Apr 28, 2025 · The Ape Index is a term that has gained traction in the fitness community, particularly among calisthenics enthusiasts and athletes. Sean Mc Coll is 5' 6'' and does pretty cool stuff vid. While he grew up in a family of Jul 9, 2021 · Adam Ondra Ape Index Adam Ondra has a +1cm ape index. It refers to the ratio of an individual’s arm span to their height. Still in her mid-20s, she has rewritten record books with multiple World Championship titles, Worl Mar 20, 2017 · Curious how your ape index and other factors stack up against the crushers that have sent Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge? Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. Interesting- a few weeks ago I spanned out with "Too Tall Tim" (Davis) who is 6'6" or so and discovered he has only a couple inches of armspan on me. From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. Find events calendar, all past and future results, ranking, IFSC news, photos, videos. These elements are key to unlocking your climbing potential, regardless of your arm length. Climbers only notice the stuff that’s “not fair” when it doesn’t suit them Apr 20, 2009 · height 5'10" armspan 6'4" (+6) age 36 years 20+ (depending on what you consider climbing) Ape index, huh? My spine is all messed up and crooked, which is what artifically decreases my height and thus pumps up the index. 5 (p<0. that little woman is like a gecko! Wome of the problems are definitely a lot more difficult for her being so short. . I'm 6'0" with a neutral ape factor. Jul 7, 2021 · Brooke Raboutou Ape Index Brooke Raboutou has a +1″ ape index. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index (12, 19, 29). The concept harks back to Leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man," which suggested the ideal human proportion where the arm span equals height, a perfect ratio of 1:1. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. 2 inches (191cm) Then 78 inches (198 cm) divided by 75. First, measure your wingspan, from outstretched fingertip to fingertip. Ape index is your wingspan (the length from fingertip to fingertip with your arms outstretched) minus your height. Oct 18, 2022 · There are two methods to calculate it. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 30 APE INDEX +0 in (+0 cm) NATIONALITY German How Tall Is Alex Megos? Alex Megos stands at 5′ 8″ (173cm). A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius prior to 15 BC. This will give you a value that’s either positive, neutral, or negative. Your ape index and other measurements are also very important to know before you climb. 5 percent stronger. Jonny2vests 10 Oct 2013 In reply to David Alcock: Ape index, or ape factor, or gorilla index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Dec 14, 2021 · The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and your height. Of course, the Ape Index is a consideration here. Try our free online calculator now! Dec 5, 2024 · The APE Index (Wingspan to Height Ratio) Calculator is a fine tool that is used to measure the ratio between an individual’s wingspan and their height. What is the average ape index? The ape index is the ratio of the length of a person’s arms to the length of their legs. ” Allen’s unconventional childhood climbing shaped her physically and mentally, developing a +3cm ape index, strong, elongated fingers and a head for heights. setting a cut a 13000 points for the very best sport climbers)? Mar 6, 2023 · Shawn Raboutou is the son of Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou. With this, calculate your ape index using one of the following methods: Ratio Divide the arm span by the height. One aspect that climbers commonly discuss is the “ape index,” a unique measurement that combines arm length and height, giving insights into a climber’s potential. Professional male climbers generally have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. Jun 3, 2024 · The ape index, a correlation between height and arm span, is crucial for climbing performance. Alex Honnold's approach to free solo climbing remains ambitious, even with the responsibilities of fatherhood. Hard climbing is invariably defined by more failure than success, but every once and a while I manage to get things done-- the feeling of hard work rewarded with accomplishment is incredible; it's what keeps me going. I love climbing, but I definitely don't have the body for it. : A well-known climber Adam Ondra measures an arm span of 187 cm (73,6 in) and a height of 186 A Key Metric for Climbers Climbing is a sport where every advantage counts, and understanding your body mechanics can transform your performance. 66 Board Climbers 61 Sport Climbers 14 Trad Climbers Height and Ape Index Directory of climbers 212 climbers Filters Understanding the Ape Index Calculator The Ape Index Calculator is a handy tool designed to compare the span of your arms to your height. I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically Jul 10, 2025 · Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. The best height for male rock climbers is 5’9, and the best height for female rock climbers is 5’4, based upon the average height of the climbers competing in the 2021 Olympics. Learn to measure yours and if it's ideal! 4) If the point is to say that tall climbers can reach further, why aren't you taking into account the ape index of these climbers instead of their height? 5) Why aren't you using the database to compute that (e. 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder Apr 28, 2025 · Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. Nov 25, 2024 · There's plenty of data on the height of pro climbers (just below the average height of the general population), but there's little to no data on how height relates to difficulty for beginner and intermediate climbers. Even guys like Alex Megos that don't seem short are well below the average height of their Mar 12, 2024 · HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. Jul 14, 2023 · Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. which is obvious. Most of the rest of the time, I love the lank. I'm 162cm tall, but my wingspan is only 152cm, so my ape index is 0. Anyone have some favorite climber girls that are 5’10”+? Oct 29, 2021 · Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. These characteristics have generated concern that young climbers may attempt body mass reduction to extreme levels with adverse consequences for health and performance. Jul 9, 2021 · Simply divide your arm span (in inches or cm) by your height in the same measurement. He is also the older brother of Olympian Brooke Raboutou. Welcome to the ape index calculator! Here you will learn what the ape index is (sometimes it's called the ape ratio), how to measure your ape index, and where you can use that knowledge. The height is obvious. What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index is a simple ratio that compares your arm span to your HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. From: Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing [2019] Feb 7, 2024 · A recent study about the body type of elite Polish boulderers to evaluate if ape index had any correlation to the level of climbing Sep 11, 2023 · The answer is simple amend the route for each to take into account the climber’s ape index, leg height etc etc so the difficulty is exactly the same for each climber no matter their physical characteristics. Even quicker, use the calculator above! With this calculation, it doesn’t matter which metric system you are using. Whilst the norm is an index of 1, the same as your height. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5. Unlike the dimensionless ratio, this calculation produces a numeric value in the units of measurement used to represent the height and arm span. Keywords: rock climbing height advantage, wingspan impact on climbing, gym training tips for climbers, relationship between height and wingspan, performance in rock climbing based on height, climbing technique adjustments, ape index explanation in climbing, maximizing climbing efficiency with wingspan, challenges in climbing due to wingspan, improving gym routines for better climbing What is the advantage of complicating it, and what is the advantage of increasing values for shorter climbers and decreasing it for taller climbers? You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. However, it’s essential to consider that this is a limited sample size. 1492 drawing Mar 4, 2023 · Project Direct coaches take a statistical dive into the strength tests and surveys of 600+ climbers and find some groundbreaking results By Casey Elliott, BS and Karly Rager, MS Tl;dr This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. zngctb jhbsufv abm kttn jfp hmyr cwxbh xxb qkiird qgkt